Jean-Paul Brun is a rare Beaujolais bird, one of the few vignerons who, from his very rst vintage in 1977, has eschewed any form of carbonic maceration in favor of purely traditional Burgundian vini cation, even for his Nouveau! In this largely commercial category, theTerres Dorées version stands out in other ways too: estate fruit only; old vines; hand harvest; no chaptalization; and native yeast fermentation. The result is a wine that is quaffable the way a Nouveau should be, and yet surprises with structure and spice as well.